When we set out yesterday morning from Cortez on one of the "scenic" drives Beth had read about on-line months ago, the mood in the car was somber. We had seen some spectacular foliage in New Mexico, and were skeptical we would see anything to rival it. As we headed out of town, the terrain seemed brown and scrubby and we grew more doubtful. Boy were we wrong! There were rivers, mountaintops, fields to run in. And the foliage. There are not adjectives enough to describe the majesty.

At one point we decided to take a "path" up into the woods (read treacherous unpaved road)--we have a Subaru after all--14 miles and two hours later we emerged, white knuckled, changed by great beauty. The road rivaled the top of the world highway we had driven in Alaska--driving among the mountain tops with vistas that could have been painted at every turn.

We stayed the night in Ouray, a cool town suggested by Barley's mother. The town has 80 percent of its original victorian houses and businesses; the hotel is particularly striking. All towns in the area are connected to mining, and there are many abandoned mills and mill towns in the surrounding mountains. Today we took another harrowing drive to see some of the abandoned towns. We passed several mines on our way to animus forks, an abandoned town at the fork of two rivers. There, in addition to the mill were several buildings still standing, including the jail and the grand house (recognizable by the bay windows in front!

We heard these mountains can have as much as 140 inches of snow, and railroad or not, it is hard to imagine spending a winter here. But you can't beat the view:

One more night in Ouray (which they call the Switzerland of America, which they also call Valdez, Alaska--Clare and Beth said they are going to have to visit Switzerland so they can decide who deserves the title). They are interested in seeing the debate, and I need a nap after my exhausting day. (Did I mention the retired police german shepherd I met at the ghost town?) Tomorrow a few sights and maybe a little shopping as we head for Denver.