True enough it has been awhile since I posted--left Ouray reluctantly Friday morning, but not before visiting their famous Box Canyon Falls, and the town's museum housed in the old hospital (closed 1964). Some of the rooms were still displayed as they would have been--an operating suite, a dentist's chair, a patient's room--and others were set up as the old store (complete with a display of products and a giant bicuit dispenser which Clare remembered from old, a well to do person's parlor, and in the basement, the cell from the old jail, an assayers office--all very period and intersting. We came upon a smal room with shelves full of rocks, none of which looked very interesting, but when you turned off the lights, and put on the black light, all the minerals shone. Very cool. We could have spent more time there than we did I think to sufficiently smell everything. The falls were also good as we had been wondering why we had seen so few--maybe the season. Saw some chipmunks there and I think they were relatives of the Chateau Lake Louise crew.

Friday night after driving a good bit we stopped in a town called Silverthorn, about an hour from Denver. We didn't realize until we woke that it had a lovely river running through it. We took a long walk along it after breakfast. Beth and Clare could not believe the stores--apparently it is 3 towns near together and all with outlets stores. There were maps and shuttles and if the parking lots were any indication, the financial crisis has not trickled down to that main street! They stopped in a few stores--again, I think they could have spent more time than they did. Finally it was off to Denver--we checked into a swank hotel and met Caitlin and Luke for dinner. At first I could not believe it was Caitlin but then was very happy to see her. Today we hung out at their house for awhile (I could smell puddin but not seee her), played a game of Wii golf, and got our first look at the much talked about guitar hero. It was funny to see Caitlin and Luke rocking out together.

We are meeting Caitlin for a midday meal and a trip to her store, and then it's time for us to hit the road and start for home. I love a good road trip but it's always good to get home--to my friends, my warm buffalo dinners, my own bed (although this one is pretty sweet!), and all the scents that say "home" to me.

When we set out yesterday morning from Cortez on one of the "scenic" drives Beth had read about on-line months ago, the mood in the car was somber. We had seen some spectacular foliage in New Mexico, and were skeptical we would see anything to rival it. As we headed out of town, the terrain seemed brown and scrubby and we grew more doubtful. Boy were we wrong! There were rivers, mountaintops, fields to run in. And the foliage. There are not adjectives enough to describe the majesty.

At one point we decided to take a "path" up into the woods (read treacherous unpaved road)--we have a Subaru after all--14 miles and two hours later we emerged, white knuckled, changed by great beauty. The road rivaled the top of the world highway we had driven in Alaska--driving among the mountain tops with vistas that could have been painted at every turn.

We stayed the night in Ouray, a cool town suggested by Barley's mother. The town has 80 percent of its original victorian houses and businesses; the hotel is particularly striking. All towns in the area are connected to mining, and there are many abandoned mills and mill towns in the surrounding mountains. Today we took another harrowing drive to see some of the abandoned towns. We passed several mines on our way to animus forks, an abandoned town at the fork of two rivers. There, in addition to the mill were several buildings still standing, including the jail and the grand house (recognizable by the bay windows in front!

We heard these mountains can have as much as 140 inches of snow, and railroad or not, it is hard to imagine spending a winter here. But you can't beat the view:

One more night in Ouray (which they call the Switzerland of America, which they also call Valdez, Alaska--Clare and Beth said they are going to have to visit Switzerland so they can decide who deserves the title). They are interested in seeing the debate, and I need a nap after my exhausting day. (Did I mention the retired police german shepherd I met at the ghost town?) Tomorrow a few sights and maybe a little shopping as we head for Denver.

Yesterday was a day of ruins--ancient puebloans. We started with the ruins in Aztec which were interesting enough. It is amazing what those people did with no modern tools, and how long it has lasted, given the rather unforgiving climate. Beth was telling us that the last time she was in the area, they believed these ruins were made by Indians called the Anasazi , a group which at that time was believed to have mysteriously disappeared around 1200 A.D. More recent scholarship now calls the people the "ancient pueblans", saying poeple in the area are descendants.

Our first Colorado stop was a town called Durango, an old mining town. The town itself was cool but not sooo dog friendly--no restaurant would let me sit with the girls on their patio. Do you believe it? And I'm sooo good now. I would have behaved. The town still has many of their old building from the late 1800's and even the hotel--very impressive.

But the real stunning ruins were at Mesa Verde, a national park designated soley to protect these ruins. The most exciting ruins were the ones up the cliffs tucked into caves, but we learned that over the centuries that indians lived here, they only retreated to these cave dwelings for the last 75-100 years before they left (vanished), and there is much speculation among scholars as to why they made these cliff dwellings. Clare and Beth found it very interesting that with all the scholarship being done, they often heard or read things like "scholars don't know the purpose of that or the use of this or even what made them take to the cliffs. Interestingly enough, one of the reasons they think might account for the vanishing is environmental degradation--but have we learned??

The park is well designed to protect the ruins and they are indeed a national treasure.

Today on the agenda: mountains, foliage, ghost towns. I am hoping for a river or two!

Spent a not so lovely day in Taos from my point of view, sites I couldn't see, shops I couldn't go in. We saw a pretty cool old Catholic church (me sadly from the car), but the girls went in, lit a candle, said some prayers. Then a little shopping, and while to be honest I did begrudge them a little, we haven't really done any shopping since we left so I suffered in silence. I heard about a fabulous quilting store and another with local "art". They bought some interesting things, but I don't think the car can fit anything else! Off to the pueblo where not only were small dogs not allowed but no pictures either! We had the misfortune of going on a big feast day so rules were plentiful and strict. From what I heard, it was all very interesting.

Finally back to the open road heading west. We saw the Rio Grande and some more excellent foliage, which I think was the point of this particular trip. We also saw a really interesting development called earthship, where the houses were all half buried in the ground. Stopped for the night in Farmington, and I think we are off to see Indian Ruins today--Aztec and Mesa Verde. I think we will actually be in Colorado before days end--the destination for our westward journey.

Shout out to heaven: HAPPY BIRTHDAY JULIE

Drove through the Ozarks but was somewhat disappointed—not quite sure what I expected, but at the very least a dip on a hot day. Nothing doing. Stopped at a state park and saw the ruins of some rich guys house in the middle of nowhere. In the state park! Drove more. Ended in Wichita. It was dark—I can’t say much. Got up and after a stop at the starbucks, headed for Greensburg. Kansas was a long state. And hot. Sunny. Flat. Did I mention hot? A lot of small towns that seemed sad. Overall, not my favorite. We stopped in Pratt on our way to Greensburg. A bigger small town, but with the Main Street of old. Greensburg itself was cool if just for the fact that we had seen it all before on the documentary –the art center, the water tower. And yes, the big well! They have the biggest well ever dug by hand. It was pretty big and smelled delicious. No shade there though (all trees gone in tornado). Kansas lasted a long time. Had our first Sonic burger. Not too good. Did I mention it was hot?


We also saw a big round barn, built about a hundred years ago. We got to let ourselves in and I raqn around like a mad dog. I don't think my nose stopped twitching the whole time. An artsy shot: (and who doesn't love a good copola?










On we drove, into Oklahoma. More of the same. I will say this; Clare navigated us on to secondary roads that had virtually no other cars, great pavement and high speed limits. Mostly we cut through farms, then ranches. It had its own beauty. Ended up at a lovely Holiday Inn in Raton, New Mexico. This morning we drove through town, and headed for the Enchanted Circle drive on our way to Taos. We saw a couple old towns (one really old), and some lovely foliage.




Tonight we are in Taos—we’ve just returned from walking around the old town square, window shopping—and get this—I actually got to go to a restaurant and sit with the drivers. So what if it was kind of outside, I thought it was very cool and didn’t miss the little morsels I often get when we all share a meal.

Tomorrow, maybe a visit to the pueblo, some old churches, some more foliage. Clare is looking through the stuff she got at the visitor's center. For sure it will be an--you guessed it--adventure!

I was the first one ready to go (okay, I was a little afraid they might leave without me), and I waited patiently while they loaded all their stuff. After what seemed like seven hours, we finally pulled away. Two days later, and I am ready for my first roving report. I’d say my not Alaska trip is off to a good start. First stop St. Louis. Driving in we saw the arch, and Beth recalled a previous trip to St. Louis.....something about a Ramada Inn....

The drive wasn’t too long and when we arrived, I made a new friend. How sweet is that? His name is Ty and he lived in a cool spot—lots of trees, near a park with a fountain. . I wanted to swim. Clare wouldn’t let me. Clare got to visit with an old friend who welcomed us all and made us feel at home with our favorite—the baked good! Brownies. Secret family recipe. I already have a call into the Duke, famed golden retreiver and espionage expert. Thanks for the hospitality Marty and Ty.

Our first full day on the road, and wouldn’t you know it—Clare navigated us onto a gravel road. Who would have thought such a thing existed in the lower 48. We saw no bears, but I I did see a lovely stream where I promptly took a dip. Onward we wound, on roads with names like N and Z, hunting for the Big Spring, our destination for today. I don’t think I have ever seen the start of a river, and I wasn’t disappointed. I heard it may be the largest spring in the world, I’m a little skeptical. Not that it wasn’t cool—the water was that weird turquoise (I am beginning to think it is the grayish brown of all the water I see near home that is the anomaly), cold, good to drink (so far). Emboldened by my last dip, I plunged in off a rock into water over my head with no shore to get out! Clare to the rescue—scooping me out without a thought for herself.

Last night we slept in a little cabin (and you know how I love a good cabin) near the springs, which was built in the 30’s by the Civilian Conservation Corp. I’d say it had some craftsman elements—wood beamed ceilings, a big stone fireplace. And I have hardly been on a leash since we left St. Louis, just for my last walk when it was so dark we couldn’t see the road without a flashlight. But the stars… Clare and Beth built a fire, Clare said it smelled like the travelers and then the never settled debate commenced about which was better--the turf fire or the wood fire. I stayed out of it.



Today we mostly drove. Through the Ozarks, stopping at a state park so I could run around and the girls could look at stuff. These were billed as the remnants of a burnt castle. Tonight we are in Witchita, listening to the debate spin. Tomorrow we continue westward, hoping to get to Greensburg and then it's on to New Mexico.

Okay, so it isn't Alaska. They can't all be Alaska, can they? But I've heard much talk of the golden Aspens in the mountains. You know how we love the fall foliage. And the open road. And so I think another adventure awaits--I was suspicious when we went to my favorite store this week and instead of buying a few cans of the delicious Mackrel, we walked out with a bag full. Road food. And then today, when they started pulling stuff out of the storage bin, I caught a wiff of something...bear...snow...north.

For those of you familiar with my previous travels, you will see them above in pink. (There is also a link to the right of my dispatches from the road for any who missed the BIG ADVENTURE) Do you believe we went that far?

Tomorrow we set out for the GREAT PLAINS, and I've been promised a cow sighting or two. I know we are all looking forward to seeing what progress has been made in Greensburg since the tornado--we have been watching the documentary on the Green Network with much interest. Aside from that, aspens in the mountains, and visiting my favorite ex-dog sitter in Denver, I haven't heard much. I guess will go where the road takes us.